From Lagazpi to Iloilo

Legazpi to Samar island

After spending five days in Legazpi it was time to move on to Iloilo, but getting there was a different story because we wanted to travel by land to see the countryside. One of our friends, Brother Raoul, a.k.a, Rocky had offered us a ride all the way to Calbayog, so once again we experienced the great generosity and kindness of the people here.
On Saturday morning we drove to Matnog, from were we took a ferry to Allen. Due to an unknown delay our ferry took of one hour later. So once we got off the ferry we were in a hurry to catch the next ferry to Cebu which was leaving at seven o’clock. Unfortunately the roads on Samar island are not as good as in Luzon. There were big holes and it was dark already. We arrived in Calbayog at 19.16 hour. We missed the ferry!
Now we were stuck on Samar till Tuesday. A city where nothing really happens and only a handful hotels are located there.
This gave us the opportunity to evaluate Legaspi and Cavite, and also to update our finance.
Through Brother Rocky we met a woman named Rofel. She took care of us during our stay. She showed us around and told us about her study, and her migration to the States. This is a common think in the Philippines, and actually a big problem. Therefore you have to work for three years in the Philippines before you get your diploma. This is one of the rules that the new President, Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, proceeded.

Berend, Sanne, Rofel and Evert

Samar island to Iloilo,

Tuesday afternoon we were finally on our way to Cebu. Because there is no direct connection to Iloilo we had to travel over Cebu. This is a twelve hour trip with hundreds of beds on the deck and one Videoke set on board to sing along.
We arrived the next morning in Cebu city. An industrial city that seems to be well developed. After spending half a day there, we took off with the next ferry to Iloilo city. We spend the night on the roof, under the stars. And dolphins swimming next to us.

Our bed on top of the ferry

Iloilo

After 12 hours we finally arrived in Iloilo city. We dropped our bags at the hotel, and went to Jaro, a district off Iloilo witch was most effected during typhoon Frank. We already knew that this was the most vulnerable place of Iloilo city. This is also the place where the most informal settlement are located.We were invited by Ramos into his house.

Ramos' crib

The people who live there told us about there life and how they experienced typhoon Frank. After that their grandchild guided us trough the Jaro region. A kind young man named Ramon. He showed us were the water level stood andthat people actually used the electric cable network to get out, because the water was rising very quickly. In some places the water level came up to 16 feet high!

Water level still visible

Meeting with the UAP,

Back in the hotel we by coincidence met an architect who’s office is located in the Hotel. His name is Mel and he is also a member of the UAP, the United Architects of the Philippines.
He invited us that same night to join him for a meeting with the UAP, they attend every month. They gave us a warm welcome, and we were placed at the last table were the big boys are seated. After a dinner and some beers the presentation finally began. First we had to introduce ourselves, which was pretty unexpected especially because we had to talk into a microphone which isn’t very easy to do.Still it was fun to be part of a meeting from the UAP.
The planned presentation was about new materials, like Ecofoam, which is a foam and easy to use and better than other isolating materials, according to the salesman of course. After being criticized by the big boys, the salesman could finally finish his presentation.

salesman at UAP meeting

Exploration Iloilo city,

The next day we went to see the city planner off Iloilo, which we already met at the meeting the night before. In the office they showed us maps of Iloilo city, which contained the new flood project, the relocation plans of the airport out of the city and the new ring road which will reduce the heavy traffic in the city centre. On the maps you could see resettlement areas as well, this because they are making some roads wider and therefore the houses which are located near the road will be relocated. Also the settlers who lives on the river banks, have to be relocated as well. This because of the danger and new regulations from the government. The plan is that there will be no building structure within twenty meters from the river. This of course for there own safety and environmental concerns.

one of the maps with cityplanners

We met with the president of DENR, Department of Environmental and Natural Resources, Mr. Bing Garnace. They are planting new trees on the riverbanks more upstream. They also intend to process this into the city, once the squatters are gone. This for holding the soil and to prevent future mudslides.
After these three day’s of exploration in Iloilo, we came to the conclusion that Iloilo is actually well developed and is not heaving severe problems after the flooding. They managed to build the destructed homes back in one month time, because the structure itself was still standing and the removal of informal settlements was already in progress, with or without the flood due to typhoon Frank.
The political situation in Iloilo is more the problem these days. Corruption is a major problem as well. In fact The Philippines is the third most corrupted country in the world.
After DENR we went to the NDCP-DND, The National Defense College of the Philippines-Department of National Defense, and talked to Eligio R. Calaor. He send us to Ir. Jose Papa from the ICDCC, Iloilo city- Crisis and Disaster management Centre. Papa was told us more about the government and the corruption. We requested for some maps and plans of Iloilo city which he could not provide us, but Mr. Rony Haresco Firmenza from ICUPAO, Iloilo City Urban Poor Affairs Office, should. He showed us the design of the relocation settlement in the Jaro district.

Exploration of Lagazpi City

Wednesday 11 and Thursday 12 March

We travelled to Lagazpi city early morning on Wednesday. We still have to get used to the daily routine here, because people tend to start their days really early! Schools start at 7 am, so people get up around 6. This is about the time when the sun comes up. We have noticed that this is true for most of our UE - case countries. 

After arriving we were picked up by Rico Locaba, from Heifer, and introduced to Sir Felix Ador. He is the head of the Aquinas University Foundation Inc. We had a meeting with them and received a very warm welcome on the university campus. We were introduced to Father Ramon Mendez, rector of the university. He explained to us what the intention of the foundation was: a lot of students come from the provincial communities. The foundation brings the students and the education back into the communities so that they can learn from each other. Projects consist of for instance water engineering and typhoon mitigation, but there was an acting programme as well. This last example helps to empower the poor and develop their sense of confidence about the future. Two lovely rooms at the campus were made up for us. 

After lunch we met with Cedric Daep, head of the PDCC (Provincial Disaster Coordinating Council). He was very enthusiastic about our research and said that this is exactly what is needed to develop long-term sustainable solutions. At the moment there are practically no maps at all. Albay is the only province with a separated pre disaster preparedness workgroup in the Philippines. (This task is normally incorporated within the post disaster workgroup, also called a (x)DCC, with (x) representing any scale of government) This seperation was the result of the three typhoons (of which Reming was the worst) that hit this province in 2006. The disaster was very complex: high wind speeds of up to 240 km/h, heavy rains, mudslides (Lahar's) from the Mayon volcano and different types of floods caused a massive destruction. After the typhoons, a quote 'typhoon of relief worker' s' engulfed the city. It seems that each NGO does it's work according to their own visions, not working together with government or each other and not reacting to local situations. Something we have to look in to...

Cedric gave us an example of this. The general conception of prevention of mudslides is to plant trees. However, in this case planting trees would only make it worse, because trees will catch heavy winds and shake and loosen the ground. This makes the ground more penetrable for water which will only increases the risk of Lahars. Some NGO's press for trees along the riverbanks to stabilise the earth, but when these trees fall over into the river, the water will not be able to escape. We conclude that disaster risk reduction is different in typhoon prone area's and that it is good that a man like Cedric Daep is in charge of the coordination.

Mt. Mayon is still very active and every now and then it deposits new rubble on the top. This will want to come down, and forms a potential risk for the surrounding barangay's (communities). One of the things he showed us on the map, was a clear circle of barangay's with a 8 km radius surrounding the volcano. These area's are all at risk. Even some resettlement area's are still at risk due to poor planning. The land here is very fertile and provides for what people here call livelihoods, a means of income. Resettlement area's often lack the land to produce foods. In Cedric's office we met with the local vulcanologist and he explained the Lahar principles to us. Basically, in his view, the whole of Lagazpi city is at risk to mudslides. The volcano is world famous for being perfectly cone-shaped, but this is simultaneously the same reason why the volcano is so unpredictable, the mud can flow of from each side. This news came as a bit of a shock to our escorts...

After that, Brother Raul and Floor, also connected to the AQFI brought us to Barangay Padang. This was one of the communities that was covered in mud and rubble after the typhoon. It was quite scary that we were actually walking on top of a large cemetery with many people and houses buried beneath the soil. The top part of a couple of the concrete structures were still visible. Some of the people had actually moved back to the site and started living there again. Admittedly this is a beautiful place, both at the foot of the volcano and on the sea shore. I can imagine why people would come back here. 

The next day we were escorted by Brother Raul and Justin Cabrera, project manager of the CARESS Relocation Site in Legazpi city. We visited 5 different relocation sights this day, but this first sight definitely was the best, in our eyes. CARESS stands for City Assistance for the RElocation of Squatters and Slum dwellers. Originally this project was planned from Manila, covering the whole 3.9 ha. with plots. The plan was quite ridiculous, for half of the site was on a very steep hill. Through the work of Justin and others, the plans changed to incorporate a conservation park on the hill. Houses at the bottom have been, or will be transported a couple of hundred metres to saver locations. 98 plots have been laid out and materials provided. Water pumps have been placed. The people have built their own houses according to their needs and private gardens have been fenced. People grow their own foods in these gardens or on the conserved hill. Rice paddy's surround the site. In the coming months some infrastructual work will add concrete roads, stairs and drainage. This site resembled the traditional barangay's in the way people take care of themselves and build their houses.

Other site's were quite different. The main difference was the lack of difference. Other site's, most of them constructed by NGO's like Oxfam, Humanitas, etc. used one type of house (each NGO has an own type). This type was reproduced an x amount of times on a strict grid along paved roads. All basic needs were installed: water, sanitation, schools, communal space, but there was no space for agriculture. As a result people have to travel to the city to find work and spend a lot of money for this travelling. That was their main complaint about living in these places. Because of this, these site's resembled the mono-functional suburbs we know from the US or the VINEX from Holland. Nothing happened there... And on top of that the houses were suitable for a family of about 5, but when the families grow, they can not increase their living space, as they are used to do. Even though, we found small economic businesses: a sewing machine and a hair dressers in the back of one of these houses. The site's we visited were quite a bit larger compared to the first (except one). Here is a list: Taysan relocation site, Anislag (Daraga), St Francis of Assisi relocation site, Tagaytay (Camalig)

At the end of the day Brother Raul and Justin brought us to Smoke 'n Grill where we ate goat, snake and pig's face to accompany the SMG's (San Miguel Light). Page, a water engineer and American peace corps volunteer, joined us and advised to never order soup nr. 5. He has been here for 3 years and speaks the local Bicollano. He was able to explain what the different face expressions mean, like lifting eyebrows for yes and pursed lips combined with a certain direction for pointing at something. The night ended with a videoke session, as is the tradition here. Even in the poorest barangay's you will be able to find huge videoke (same as karaoke) installations.

The amount of life is so truly beautiful about the Philippines. Everything is full of it. The rice fields, the papaya trees, the bugs and bullfrogs, the eagles and lizards, the water, the people. There is a great understanding of this. Everything co-exists. That is why people will not steal from you, they would rather offer you some food. In stead of asking something like are you o.k., they will ask you: 'have you eaten' If you would ask about somewhere to sleep they will offer it to you. You have to be careful with your questions... This hospitality is something they are very proud of. If someone dies, the coffin will be placed inside the home for a couple of days and during this time everyone, even strangers, will visit and receive foods and drinks from the family. A poker table will be installed. Fun and Joy are celebrated every day, people love to make jokes, dance and sing. This is a very modest and beautiful country, it deserves to be up there with Thailand.

Visit school in Buyi, Bicol

Today we went to visit a school in Buyi, on the border of Albay and Camarines Sur, which has been struck by the typhoon Reming in 2006. We were picked up at the hotel with a governmental car, this you could see because the licence plate was red. Due to that fact we could drive on the left lane, which was pretty scary.

We picked up one other person before we went to the school, she was an engineer / project planner who was in charge of the construction for the school buildings. She told us that all the schools are built according to national governments prescriptions and that is why all the schools look the same. (we observed that this is true) It seems schooling is very well organised in the Philippines. Everywhere you go there are lots of schools. One mayor problem however, is the metal sheet roofings. These cannot withstand strong winds and turn into razor sharp head cutters during typhoons. She recommended concrete slab roofing, but this was to expensive and not part of the governemental prescriptions. It is amazing to see how this material has found its way into the building industry. It is so multi-purpose, flexible and, most importantly, easy that you can find it practically anywhere. Uncoated the material only costs 50 pesos (1 US$) per meter, so a 20 m2 roof would come up to about 40 US$, quite cheap.

After a long trip, we arrived at the school and accustomed to the Philippino tradition, we received a warm welcome. After drinks and a quick talk about what we do, we went for a tour around the school.

In the first place we saw the school from the streets, and you would never expect that behind the front building is this large playfield with more buildings around it.

The head of the school showed us every building which consisted out three classrooms.

One building was totally destroyed and al the others were damaged, ceilings and whole roofs were blown away.

We saw new buildings which were realised by Unicef and the government (separatly). These seem to be well structured.

But the main problem was the lack of enough classrooms, because some buildings are not rebuild yet, there were too many children in one classroom, but on the other hand, there were not enough teachers, and maybe that’s why there were to many children in the classrooms…but still it’s a big problem.

We saw each classroom, with a warm welcome from all the children every time that we passed the classes: ‘Good afternoon principal, good afternoon visitors welcome to class 1, please have a seat’.

It was very impressive to see what happened to the buildings on old photographs. Everything was underwater, because of all the rainfall. All the water came to the lowest point, which is were the school is positioned.

The people could evacuate into the school during the typhoon, but after that you couldn’t stay there, otherwise you would sleep underwater…

After a long stay in the school and some good talks with the staff, we had to move on.

We went to a lake where the smallest fish of the world are being caught and turned into fish-crackers. They are less than a centimetre long. We haven’t tried it yet.

Tour with Neneng (PRRM)

At six ‘o clock in the morning Neneng and Sharon from the PRRM picked us up to start our tour around the area of Cavite. Sharon is actually an English marine biologist who now lives in The Philippines. First they took us to a reforestation project. Here they plant new Mangrove plants to stimulate the fish productivity and also to get the Mangrove back again. This is in itself a natural boundary in case of i.e. typhoons and floods. They plant the Mangrove and learn the local community there how to take care of them. They also introduced us to the chief of the community who was really kind and pleased to meet us. After that we drove to a landfill the PRRM and other NGO’s and organizations are demonstrating against. It causes in many ways big problems as landslides and pollution, effecting the natural environment. It’s also against the governments own policy because they made the area too large and too close to a river, which will directly infect the water system of the downstream situated village. Next we visited two women who strive to eat and culture more organic local vegetables. They want to set up a program to learn people how to do this, so they can practice this at home in their own backyard. After this we went back to Manila and they arranged for our bus trip the next day to Naga, near Legaspi. We could spend the night in the dormitory at the PRRM building, and we had a lovely evening with them on the roof terrace.

Fisherman boot

Landfill

interview Neneng

Arrival

After an exhausting trip we finally arrived in Metro Manila! A very crowded city full of American influances such as fastfood chains, malls and billbords. The next day we had our first meeting with Neneng and Guyi who are working for the PRRM (Philippines Rural Reconstruction Movement). They gave us a very warm welcome with a tipical organic Philippine meal , and we gathered some useful information not only for our research, but also about the Philippines and some practical stuff. After that we explored the city a bit by going with a jeepney ( national symbool of the Philippines). The day after we visited the UP (University of the Philippines)located in Quezon city. Again the campus was very American by design. We had found already on the internet some books we wanted te look into. We managed to find them, but they were a bit outdated. Currently we are heading to Cavite City. We will meet up there with Neneng tomorrow again to join her and her team on a trip trough the Cavite area.

Metro Manila

Jeepney

University of the Philippines